Curious about how a world-renowned Bordeaux house is shaping the future of Chinese wine? In this episode I sit down with Charles Treutanaere, the key figure behind Domaine de Long Dai, DBR Lafite’s ambitious estate in Shandong, China.
Together we explore how he builds bridges between two cultures, develops a wine estate from scratch and adapts French expertise to a unique Chinese terroir. We get into the challenges of recognition for fine Chinese wines, how the local market has evolved, and the delicate balance between tradition and innovation.
From vineyard practices to consumer education, this conversation gets at what it actually takes to make world-class wine in an emerging region. And why the Long Dai story is only just beginning.
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A career rooted in China
Charles Treutanaere walks me through a long and unusual journey that started in China back in 1998, when he first landed in Beijing to study the language and the culture. Wine wasn’t on the cards yet, but that early immersion gave him a deep understanding of Chinese society. The country was still in the middle of rapid development and largely unknown to most Europeans at the time.
After a short stint back in France, he decided to return to China in 2005 and joined the wine importer Summergate. There, he got first-hand experience of a market on the rise, driven by fast economic growth and demand from international hotels and restaurants. Over time, he moved from distribution into brand development. Eventually, he joined DBR Lafite to lead the Long Dai project.
The birth of Domaine de Long Dai
Domaine de Long Dai, located in Shandong province, came out of a bold vision launched in 2008 by the Rothschild family. At a time when China was still getting little recognition for fine wine, the ambition was to create a world-class wine rooted in a local terroir, not to replicate a Bordeaux model.
Charles joined the project in 2018, tasked with bringing a complex decade-long development across the finish line. His first priority was preparing the official opening of the estate in 2019. He coordinated construction, regulatory approvals and team building.
Beyond launching a winery, the mission is to bridge French winemaking know-how with Chinese culture. Something Charles sees as core to the identity of the project.
Respecting the culture and the terroir
Humility is a central principle in Charles’s vision. Rather than imposing Bordeaux methods, Long Dai was designed to integrate local traditions and knowledge. The architecture itself reflects that philosophy, leaning on traditional Chinese construction techniques rather than recreating a French château.
The same rigour applies in the vineyard. The estate sits in the Qiu Shan valley, near the coast, with a temperate climate comparable to parts of Europe. The land, once dedicated to orchards, is made up of hundreds of terraces. Each one is worked individually to optimise quality and let the full complexity of the terroir come through.
For Charles, the goal isn’t power, but balance and elegance: founding principles inherited from the Lafite philosophy.
Building a local ecosystem
Another key piece of the project is the close collaboration with local communities. Because of how Chinese land law works, Long Dai works hand-in-hand with local farmers. The estate gives them stable employment and training in viticulture.
This approach delivers two things at once: consistency in the vineyard work and a real exchange. The farmers bring deep knowledge of local agriculture, and the estate brings its expertise and long-term perspective. Charles sees this as a “win-win” model that strengthens both quality and local roots.
How the Chinese wine market has evolved
Drawing on his experience since the early 2000s, Charles highlights how much the Chinese wine market has shifted. It was initially dominated by imported wines and a handful of large distributors. Today, the market is more fragmented and competitive, with shorter distribution channels. It also benefits from direct access to consumers via digital platforms.
Consumer tastes have matured too. Where red wine once dominated almost exclusively, Chinese drinkers are now exploring a much wider range of styles. That said, wine isn’t yet fully woven into Chinese culture the way tea or baijiu are. Which is why consumer education matters so much.
The challenge of getting Chinese wines recognised
One of the biggest challenges today is convincing Chinese consumers of the value of their own wines. According to Charles, that takes time, storytelling, and a constant educational effort.
Interestingly, he notices that foreign consumers in China are often the first to adopt Chinese wines like Long Dai. They’re driven by curiosity and a real desire to discover local products. That suggests international recognition could accelerate acceptance on the domestic market.
Looking ahead
Charles is convinced Chinese wines will gradually gain visibility on the world stage, the way other Chinese industries have. But that success will depend on continued effort to build credibility, educate consumers and showcase the singularity of Chinese terroirs.
For him, Long Dai is much more than a wine estate. It’s a meeting point between centuries of French winemaking tradition and China’s still largely untapped potential.
Charles Treutanaere’s recommendations
A book: Château Lafite: the Almanac 1868, by Saskia de Rothschild
Learn more about: Domaine de Long Dai
