I sit down with Xavier Jean, the man behind Couvent des Jacobins, a discreet Grand Cru Classé nestled in the heart of Saint-Émilion, and his bold Merlot project, Calicem. In this episode, we dive into a family story that spans more than two centuries. From a ruined convent to a benchmark estate.
Xavier opens up about growing up in Saint-Émilion, taking over the reins, and shaping a clear wine philosophy without chasing trends. We talk terroir, old vines, and why Calicem had to exist outside the classification. We explore wine tourism, underground cellars, hospitality, and cultural events at the Couvent. From Bordeaux to Hong Kong and Singapore, we unpack how to build markets, work with sommeliers, and stay relevant without shouting.
If you’re curious about authentic Bordeaux, long-term vision, and wines with identity, this conversation is for you. Expect insights, stories, and practical lessons for wine lovers and professionals alike.
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A summary of the interview with Xavier Jean
A family estate rooted in History
Xavier introduces himself as the fourth-generation owner of Couvent des Jacobins, a Grand Cru Classé located in the heart of Saint-Émilion. The estate has been in his family for more than two centuries. With roots going back to the early 1800s and a decisive purchase in 1902, when his ancestors acquired what was then a near-ruin in the village. Over generations, the family patiently rebuilt the property. They expanded the vineyard from nothing to around 11 hectares. They shaped Couvent des Jacobins into a discreet but respected name in Saint-Émilion.
Growing up with Wine
Although Xavier now lives in Asia, wine has always been part of his life. He grew up in Saint-Émilion, went to school there, worked the vines, drove tractors, and took part in harvests from a young age. His family background is deeply intertwined with winemaking. His father was a winemaker, his grandfather a local mayor, and several relatives owned estates in the region. This immersion made his later involvement at Couvent des Jacobins feel natural rather than forced.
Taking a more active role
While Xavier became increasingly involved in the estate from 2012 onward, he emphasizes that this was not a sudden takeover. But this was a gradual deepening of responsibility. Working closely with long-time winemaker and general manager Denis Pomarede, he began contributing more directly to winemaking decisions and overall philosophy. Trust and continuity are central. Much of the team has been at the estate for decades. It allows Xavier to manage Couvent des Jacobins confidently despite living abroad.
Calicem: a distinct new project
In 2015, Xavier launched Calicem, a separate cuvée born from a unique plot of old Merlot vines planted in the early 1960s. Because Saint-Émilion’s classification rules prevent unclassified plots from being absorbed into a classified estate, Xavier chose to preserve the plot’s identity rather than dilute it. Calicem is 100% Merlot, deeper and more concentrated than Couvent des Jacobins, and intentionally different in style. It has its own expression rather than an extension of the Grand Cru Classé.
A philosophy of discretion
Xavier describes Couvent des Jacobins as “discreet but not static.” The estate has never sought loud marketing, flashy winemaking, or exaggerated oak influence. Instead, it focuses on consistency, balance, and a recognizable identity that transcends vintage variations. This approach may have limited exposure in some markets during periods when critics favored more powerful, oaky styles. But it has built long-term loyalty among customers who value authenticity.
Wine tourism and hospitality
In recent years, Couvent des Jacobins has opened more deliberately to visitors, embracing wine tourism as a natural extension of its history. The estate’s underground cellars, located 10–12 meters beneath the village, offer a striking and intimate setting. Private visits, tastings, lunches, blending workshops, and cultural events are now part of the experience. In 2024, the estate also opened a small boutique next to the entrance, allowing visitors to discover and purchase wines directly in Saint-Émilion.
Living in Asia, building markets
Based in Singapore after earlier years in Hong Kong, Xavier has played an active role in developing Asian markets for Couvent des Jacobins and Calicem. He believes strongly in “boots on the ground”: meeting sommeliers, distributors, restaurateurs, and private clients in person. With limited production, around 30,000 to 40,000 bottles per year, his strategy favors long-term relationships and steady growth rather than one-off sales bursts.
Views on Bordeaux and global markets
Xavier reflects candidly on Bordeaux’s cycles of popularity, especially in Asia. He sees markets like Singapore as resilient and maturing. While China, after a rapid boom and correction, is gradually finding a more sustainable footing. Wine tourism, he believes, plays a crucial role in this maturation by connecting consumers emotionally to regions like Saint-Émilion.
Identity above all
For Xavier, the hardest part of winemaking is not technical precision but defining and maintaining a clear philosophy over time. Whether at Couvent des Jacobins or with Calicem, he aims for wines that express their terroir and vintage while remaining true to a consistent identity. That long-term vision, quietly innovative, deeply rooted, and human in scale, defines both the wines and the way he chooses to share them with the world.
Xavier Jean’s recommendations
- Wine and War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasur, by Donald Kladstrup and Petie Kladstrup. A historical account of how French winemakers and the broader wine industry fought to protect France’s treasured vineyards, cellars, and bottles during World War II after the Nazi invasion in 1940.
- Know more about Couvent des Jacobins, a Grand Cru Classé nestled in the heart of Saint-Émilion
- Don’t miss Club Bâtard, a members’ wine and dining club, in the heart of Hong Kong
- Discover Fine Wine Experience, fine wine retailer and events host in Hong Kong
